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MISCELLANIES.

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TH

HE season being still sufficiently favourable for a journey by water, we determined to go down the Elbe to Hamburgh. The accounts received from the army, though only at a very few days journey from Dresden, being various and uncertain, we hastened our preparations for departure, to which we never looked forward without forming a wish that it might still be delayed.

We hired a covered boat, containing three persons, with a large open space at the head, in which was a kitchen exposed to the air. This place was spacious enough for a carriage, baggage, and for the boatmen to row: at the stern of the vessel was another space, rather smaller, employed for a variety of purposes. The crew consisted of four men, besides the master, who bore the title of captain, and prided himself extremely on having taken Lord Nelson in his boat to Hamburgh. With him we made a bargain for 250 Saxon

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dollars for the whole of the voyage. A provision of tea, sugar, coffee, chocolate, beer, and wine, should be taken on these occasions. New white bread cannot always be procured on the voyage; but fish, meat, milk, and eggs, may generally be had every day, and at reasonable rates. Those who wish it, may sleep on shore, but the inns are frequently bad, and in many places incapable of affording accommodations for a family; we therefore brought beds from Dresden, and always slept on board; this we found much more comfortable and convenient, several of the towns being at a great distance from the shore.

The news from the army was so very alarming on the Monday evening (13th of October), that we resolved on leaving Dresden the next morning as early as possible; but, notwithstanding all our exertions, we did not row from the shore till the clock struck ele

ven.

On quitting the bridge, we cast a tearful eye on the electoral palace, so long the residence of virtue and the seat of happiness; the surrounding crowd seemed to partake in our sentiments, and to dread the removal of the former,

In 1906, during the French invasion of Prussia.

and

and the termination of the lat

ter.

The weather was mild, and the wind favourable; so much so, indeed, that with minds at ease, we should greatly have enjoyed the beginning of our voyage; but the clearness of the horizon contributed to our melancholy, by presenting to view the smiling banks of the Elbe, decorated with the elegant villas of several of our friends and acquaintance, whose public employments, or domestic affairs, would not permit them to quit this distressful scene.

The pavilion at Prisnitz forms a beautiful o ject. On descending the Elbe, it is situated on the left bank, which is very elevated, and extremely picturesque. The opposite shore is flat, but the plain is terminated by mountains, ornamented by a variety of countryhouses, vineyards, and plantations. Before we arrived at Meissen, we were stopped by a floatingbridge, thrown over the Elbe to facilitate the passage of the troops, and which was opened every two hours for vessels to pass through. Here we were detained about half an hour, and arrived at Meissen at half past three. The approach to this place is truly beautiful; the town itself, the covered bridge, and castle, form 'a point of view equally varied and picturesque. We remained here at least two hours paying the tolls, and were very impatient to be gone, but our captain assured us, and his words were but too true, that we should frequently be detained still longer for the same purpose. We would advise all travellers to follow our example, and make an agreement with the captain for the

payment of these tolls, which are very numerous, and at very little distances from each other. What contributes to make them tedious and troublesome is, that the different sovereigns to whom they belong, insist on being paid in the coin of their several countries. The houses, too, where the payments are made, are sometimes two or three English miles from the shore. This is highly inconvenient at all times, but particularly after rain, when there are several places almost impassable. -The boatinen frequently stop longer than they ought to do, but it is impossible to prevent them, for they are as obstinate as the Saxon postillions, who have that defect to such a degree, that they even withstand the temptation of money: we had, however, no occasion to complain of our crew, whom we bribed on some occasions to make such very fatiguing efforts as pained us to witness. Smuggling has no small share in these repeated delays, especially towards evening, when, though sufficiently light to proceed much further, nothing can prevent the boatmen from casting anchor for the night.

Disagreeable as are these tolls to a traveller, they are attended by much greater inconvenience to trading vessels, which, though laden with necessary provisions, are detained equally with a pleasure-boat. This we had frequent opportunities of remarking be tween Magdeburgh and Hamburgh.

After walking more than an hour at Meissen, we continued gliding down the stream. setting sun

The

was beautiful, and

gilded

gilded the enchanting scenes which presented themselves, for about an hour longer, on each side of the Elbe. The banks were for a part of the way elevated, but then became flat, and continued so the greatest part of the way to Hamburgh..

We cast anchor at a distance from any habitation, and on the morrow (the 15th) were stopt to pay the tolls at Mühlberg, Strehla, and Torgau. We inquired eagerly for news at all these places, and were always answered in the same manner: "That they knew nothing with any certainty; that a general battle was expected (it had already taken place on the 14th); and that the French hussars had laid Leipsick under contribution." This we had learned at Dresden the morning of our departure. Every one, however, agreed in the account of the heroic death of Prince Louis Ferdinand of Prussia, who, surrounded by a corps of several thousand Frenchmen, preferred death to yielding himself a prisoner; thus giving an example to the Prussian army, which no officer nor soldier could fail following. We were acquainted with the Prince at Dresden. He was an officer of the most sanguine temper, and it was always thought that he would fall a victim to his rashness. His former wounds ought to have reminded him, that French bullets were sometimes but too well aimed; had he, however, on this last melancholy occasion, attended to the dictates of prudence, he most probably would have escaped the fury of the enemy. Both armies have paid the deserved tribute to his valour, frequently declaring, that VOL. LIII.

he fought like a brave soldier, and died like a hero. Such a funeral eulogium will descend to posterity, and palliate those errors, of which, perhaps, some of his contemporaries may deem him guilty.

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The spire of Torgau church is seen at a distance, and appears still handsomer on a nearer approach. The castle is large; and the covered bridge is four hundred and twenty feet in length: eight of the piles are of stone, and the remainder of wood. After passing under it, we saw eight water mills, on floating pontoons. There are great numbers of the same kind the whole way down the river, particularly at Magdeburgh. little beyond Torgau, we passed a stud of stallions and brood mares belonging to the Elector. Farther on, the inhabitants near the river have sunk fences close to the edge, formed of wattled hurdles; and, in some places, planted young willows to raise a live hedge, in order to defend the banks from the overflowings of the Elbe, and to prevent the ground from falling in: there are likewise stone piers in some parts, to break and turn off the force of the stream.

After passing the night in the same kind of isolated situation as the preceding one, we set off as early as possible the next morning. The idea of the French being at Leipsick, only two days' march from Torgau, induced us to lose no time in flying from so dangerous an enemy. We were, however, detained, as usual, by the tolls at Pretsch, where the news we heard was far from satisfactory, and made us still more eager to continue our voyage; particularly as the corn and wood ma2 N

gazines

gazines on the left bank of the Elbe, between Pretsch and Wirtemberg, seemed very likely to attract the attention of the enemy. Before we arrived at the last mentioned town, the sky was absolutely clouded by flights of wild ducks and geese, and we scarcely passed a day during the remainder of the voyage without seeing great numbers: some of these birds permitted us to row very near them. This threatened severe weather, which, as we had only one stove in the vessel, would have been very disagreeable: fortunately, however, we suffered no inconvenience from the cold, for though there was a little white frost almost every night, it was quickly dispelled by the morning sun.

We were obliged to stop some time at Wirtemberg, which, though a post of great importance, had not a single soldier of the regulars within its gates. The bridge over the Elbe is of wood, and so indeed are the eight piles which support the arches. This city merits the attention of the traveller, on account of the university, and the tombs of Luther, Melancthon, &c.

We passed that night near Coswig, where, in happier times, we should certainly have disembarked to have seen the celebrated gardens at Werlitz, on the road to Dessau: fortunately we did not yield to the temptation; had we done so, we should have had reason to repent having gratified our curiosity. The morning was so foggy, that we could scarcely distinguish the banks of the river, most the whole of the way to the bridge of Dessau, but, from the very little we saw, they appeared to be extremely well wooded. This

bridge is entirely built of wood, and they were repairing it when we passed. Here we landed, whilst our boatmen went to pay the tolls. The news they brought was very alarming. Couriers were conti nually passing and repassing, but their intelligence was very contradictory, some bringing the most favourable, and others the most unfavourable accounts. Anxious as we were, we could not possibly quit the bridge of Dessau without admiring the beautiful sheet of water formed by the Elbe in this interesting spot, and the pleasant situation of a little turret, from which a variety of exquisite scenery presents itself on every side.

Scarcely had we returned to our little drawing-room, before we were surprised by the firing of cannon, which, at first, appeared at a great distance, but came nearer by degrees, and in about two hours ceased entirely. We were not deceived in the ideas we formed on this occasion, having judged that so short a cannonading, which seemed to approach us, though the sounds grew weaker, could only announce the defeat of the army between us and the French. We soon after landed at a ferry, and conversed with an old Prussian officer, who was walking, with some others, on the bank of the river. He either was, or pretended to be, ignorant of the disastrous state of his army, and expressed great impatience for an account of the last engagement. He, how ever told us, that the Duke of Brunswick had been dreadfully wounded in the eye, and had crossed the river the evening before. There was a relay of car riage-ho,ses waiting on the shore,

which

which the old officer told us had been there a considerable time, in expectation of the Prince of G-, who arrived just after we had reembarked. He was attended by only one person, who appeared to be an officer. They immediately changed horses, and got into the ferry-boat, which passed at no great distance from our vessel. As I thus had an opportunity, I ventured to address myself to him in French, no longer doubting of the unforevent which had taken place at the battle of Halle :"Does not your Highness think," asked I," that it would be dangerous to continue our voyage to Magdeburgh?"-"I do not be lieve it will," very obligingly answered he in the same language. This prince travelled in a hunting calash made of wicker, plain and light; he had no baggage, and his attendant only a leathern bag fastened to a belt, like a sportsman's pouch. The approach to Barby is extremely beautiful, but we did not venture to admire it too long; and the moment the toll was paid, we continued our voyage, think ing ourselves very happy in being able to proceed nearly three miles further that evening.

Early the next morning (Saturday the 18th) we distinguished the smoke from the salt-pits at Schönbeck. The town appeared as having suffered from a terrible fire, scarcely half extinguished. Our boat stopped on the opposite bank, where we could not learn any particulars of the battle the day before but what confirmed - our apprehensions, were the orders just received from the Prussian government, to remove all the public money from Schönbeck.

Though eager to proceed, we were detained some time; there being two tolls to pay on each side of the river. Soon after embarking, we perceived the spires of Magdeburgh, where we had rea son to believe we should gain certain intelligence of all that had passed from the opening of the campaign; for hitherto the accounts had been as contradictory as those at Dresden.

On arriving at Magdeburgh, what a melancholy spectacle presented itself to view! The whole country was covered by a line of waggons, which extended beyond our sight, and were filled with the sick and wounded, and their baggage. The ramparts were lined with soldiers, as if besieged by the enemy. The dry ditches were full of carriage-horses and their drivers, both worn out by fatigue and fasting, the greater part having neither eaten nor drank for more than twenty-four hours. The cannon, and the ammunition and other waggons came on so fast, that the town, large as it is, was pres sently entirely filled. In vain was it that it was represented at the gates, that it was impossible to admit more, that the squares, courts, and streets, were already crowded with carriages; still those who arrived continued rushing in, till at last they were forced to open a passage into the large inclosure of the advanced fortifications. This, some of our party witnessed; and words cannot do justice to the distress of the inhabitants, who appeared terror struck. Those from the suburbs hastened to bring their most valuable effects into the city; and on my inquiring at the cus tom-house for the principal clerk, 2 N 2

they

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