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coast. His principal original work is on the diseases of Iceland; but he has written also several treatises on the natural history of the island, and on the rural economy of the people, which are said to possess great merit. Mr. Stephenson has distinguished himself in the same department: and in many of his writings, has laboured to make his countrymen avail themselves of all the means of improving their condition, which are rendered possible by the nature of their soil and climate.

The sciences of astronomy and mathematics are by no means generally cultivated among the Icelanders; though there are some individuals who have successfully pursued these studies, either in the island itself, or with the better opportunities which were afforded by a residence in the Danish metropolis.. The study of the mathematics, though prescribed by the regulations of the school at Bes

After all that has been said in the preceding pages of the poverty of the Icelanders, and of the nature of the country upon which their destiny is cast, it will not be thought wonderful that the fine arts should desert a clime so little congenial to their growth. Painting exists here only in its rudest forms; the native music of the island is inharmonious and uncouth; while the art of sculpture is almost entirely unknown. In proof, however, that these deficiences must be ascribed to the situation of the people, and not to a defect in original genius, it may be mentioned that Thorvaldsen, the son of an Icelander, dwelling on the classic ground of Rome, is at the present moment second only to Canova among the statuaries of Europe.

RACTER OF THE ICELANDERS.
By the same.

sestad, receives but little attention RELIGIOUS SERVICE AND CHAthere; nor does it in generai form a part of the private occupation of those, who enjoy a literary character in the island. No purely mathematical work is extant in .the Icelandic language; but in a book of arithmetic, which was written some time ago by the elder Mr. Stephenson, trigonometry and the elements of equations are briefly included. Stephen Biornson, formerly the master of the school at Hooium, published in the acts of the Icelandic Society a treatise on statics, which is well spoken of. This man, whose acquirements in various branches of science were very considerable, died at Copenhagen about the beginning of the present century.

The ordinary service of the churches in Iceland consists of prayer, psalms, a readings from the Scriptures. The sermon, and prayers and readings are rather chaunted than spoken by the priest, who performs this part of the service at the altar of the church. The sermons appear in general to be previously composed, and are delivered from notes. Of the style and character of these compositions we had not the means of forming an accurate judgment; but in those instances where we attended the public worship of the country, it seemed,

from

from the warm and impassioned manner of their delivery, and from the frequent use of the figure of interrogation, that a powerful appeal was made to the feelings, as well as to the understanding, of the audience, In the conduct of the religious service much decorum is generally maintained. One striking instance to the contrary occurred indeed to our observation; but the case was a singular one, and must be received merely in the light of an exception to a ge

neral statement.

The moral and religious habits of the people at large may be spoken of in terms of the most exalted commendation. In his domestic capacity, the Icelander performs all the duties which his situation requires, or renders possible; and while by the severe labour of his hands, he obtains a provision of food for his children, it is not less his care to convey to their minds the inheritage of knowledge and virtue. In his intercourse with those around him, his character displays the stamp of honour and integrity. His religious duties are performed with cheerfulness and punctuality; and this even amidst the numerous obstacles, which are afforded by the nature of the country, and the climate under which he lives. The Sabbath scene at an Icelandic church is indeed one of the most singular and interesting kind. The little edifice, constructed of wood and turf, is situated perhaps amid the rugged ruins of a stream of lava, or beneath mountains which are covered with never melting snows; in a spot where the mind almost sinks under the silence and desolation of surrounding na

ture.

Here the Icelanders assemble to perform the duties of their religion. A group of male and female peasants may be seen gathered about the church, waiting the arrival of their pastor; all habited in their best attire, after the manner of the country; their children with them; and the horses, which brought them from their respective homes, grazing quietly around the little assembly. The arrival of a new-comer is welcomed by every one with the kiss of salutation; and the pleasures of social intercourse, so rarely enjoyed by the Icelanders, are happily connected with the occasion which summons them to the discharge of their religious duties.. The priest makes his appearance among them as a friend: he salutes individually each member of his flock, and stoops down to give his almost parent kiss to the little ones, who are to grow up under his pastoral charge. These offices of kindness performed, they all go together into the house of prayer.

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Leases for a term of years are not common in any part of the island. The same tenant continues to possess the land, unless the proprietor can prove that the farm has been neglected, or that the farmer has misconducted himself. The law is effectual in preventing abuses in the dismissal of tenants; for if a farmer can prove by a survey of the Hrepstiorè, or two respectable persons of his own profession, that his farm has not been neglected, he cannot be removed; but he may quit his farm whenever he pleases. The practice of letting farms from year to year is not uncon mon; six months netice being necessary for the tenant to quit.

A farm, the disposeable value of which is about 200 rix-dollars, pays a Land-skuld of from four to six. The nominal price of land hus, in many instances, doubled within the last forty years; not, however, in consequence of any improvement, but of the depreciation of the government paper. The rix-dollar, which is paper, is worth four shillings English, when at par. A guinea in Iceland, at the time we left the island, was worth fifteen paper dollars; and since my arrival in Scotland I have been offered twenty for a

guinea. The increase of rent has taken place chiefly on the permanent stock of the farm.

Besides the rent payable to the proprietor, a farmer is obliged to pay a proportion to the parish priest, according to the rent of his farm; and to keep a lamb for him during the winter season, taking it in October, and returning it in good condition about the middle of May.

The servants are generally orphans, or the children of very poor tarmers. As they are considered nearly on a level with their master's children, it is not uncommon for marriages to take place between them; and a poor farmer sends his son or daughter to serve in the house of one in more affluent circumstances, in hopes of such a connection being formed.

The wages given to servants, male and female, amount to from four to six dollars a-year, sometimes more, besides food and clothes. By these, and the other members of the family, every thing that is necessary for subsistence and clothing is prepared, and all business performed. During the winter season, the family rises about six or seven o'clock in the morning. One is sent out to look after the sheep; another attends the cattle; some are employed in making ropes of wool or horse hair; one is in the smithy making horse shoes and other articles. Spinning is performed with a spindle and distaff, and sometimes with a wheel; some, both men and women, knit and weave, and others prepare sheep-skins for fishing dresses. While so many are thus occupied, one generally reads aloud, in a singing tone, different

tales

tales and histories. Most farmhouses are supplied with books containing such tales; and the people exchange books with each other for the sake of variety. The only opportunity they have of making this exchange is when they meet at church, where, even during the most inclemeut part of the season, a few always contrive to be present. The people sometimes amuse themselves with a game somewhat like drafts; with cards; and many play chess extremely well.

The Icelanders divide the day and night into nine periods From midnight to three o'clock in the morning they call Otta; from three to six, Midurmorgun; from six to nine, Dagmal; from nine to twelve, Hactei: the first hour and a half after noon, Midmunda; from half past one to three o'clock, Noon; from three to six, Miduraftur; from six to nine, Nattmal; from nine to twelve, Midnat. There are but few clocks in the island, and they are not very good.

We saw in different places, particularly at Huaneyrè, pieces of very good cloth which had been manufactured in the country. The sort called wadmal differs from cloth, in being what is called in this country, tweeled. Blue and black are the most common colours. One piece of cloth which we saw was a mixed black and white. Different shades of yellow are used, and not unfrequently for stockings. The processes of dyeing are very simple. The leaves of the arbutus uva ursi, the lycopodium alpinum, the lichen Islandicus, and some others, are employed. Stockings are filled with the lichen Islandicus, and boiled.

When cloth is to be dyed, the vegetable substances are chopped small, and spread over the cloth, which is then rolled up and boiled. Black is obtained by strewing a rich black earth, found in some of the bogs, over the cloth, after it has been boiled with the arbutus uva ursi, when it is again rolled up and boiled. We saw none of this earth, but probably it contains a considerable proportion of iron, which, with the astringent matter of the plant, affords the black colour. Indigo is used for dyeing blue.

The skins of horses and cows, after having been steeped for some time in urine, are frequently put into the liquor which has been: used for dyeing black; by which means they undergo a slight degree of tanning. Sheep-skins are prepared by being soaked in water till the wool loosens, which is removed; and then the skins are drawn over a ram's horn fastened to the roof by its ends.

Farm-houses are for the most part built on dry knolls, and the ground immediately around them is allotted for hay. The extent is greater or less according to circumstances; and though hay is by far the most important article to a farmer in Iceland, I do not recellect to have seen any signs of exertion to improve a hay field by draining, or otherwise. All the manure is bestowed upon the little hillocks, which surround the houses like graves, into which the bay ground is generally partitioned. The people believe that a greater quantity of grass can grow upon an extended surface of this sort; and this erroneous notion is entertained even by the higher classes. That a greater surface is procured, is

true;

true; but as every plant grows perpendicularly, or as nearly so as circumstances will admit, a greater produce cannot be obtained. The speedy evaporation of moisture, occasioned by the smallness of the hillocks, and the air circulating between them, must render the grass that does grow, less luxuriant than it would be otherwise. About the time of our arrival in Iceland, the people were busy spreading the dung; and about the end of July, the hay harvest had begun in many places. The grass is neither close, nor long, at the time it is reckoned fit for cutting. We did not observe any field in which the useless or less nutritious plants did not exceed, or at least equal in number, those that were really valuable. Every thing that grows is cut down by means of a short narrow scythe, with which the Icelanders work expeditiously and neatly, making all the little knolls perfectly bare. When cut, the grass is commonly gathered together on some even place, where it can be turned and tossed conveniently. I observed in many places that no more was cut at a time than what would employ the people on the farm to dry; and before any more was cut, the first portion was carried home. When bog-grasses are accessible, they are carefully cut and made into hay. The process of drying is the same as with us; and when carried home, the hay is made up into long and narrow stacks, often before it is perfectly dry, and consequently much of it is spoiled by heating. The hay is kept chiefly for the cows, on which the people depend for much of their subsistence. In severe weather, a little

is given to the sheep and horses; but they often struggle through a hard winter without any sustenance but what they can procure for themselves,

As soon as the hay around the house is secured, the farmers give a feast, or harvest-home. This is a supper of which the chief delicacy is porridge, made of meal of some sort, and milk. When the whole hay harvest is finished, another feast takes place, when a fat sheep is killed. Though neither dancing nor singing are called in aid, these feasts are chearful and merry.

The immense extent of the bogs and swamps of Iceland renders it obvious to any one who has attended to the subject, that the climate must be greatly deteriorated by the evaporation from them. Were the people to set about draining the bogs, they would find not only the climate improve, but the quantity of grass fit for hay to increase largely. There seems to be some prejudice against draining, which a little intercourse with Britain may probably remove. I do not know any place where draining could be more easily or more advantageously practised than Indreholm, and in the country lying between Akkrefell and the Skardsheidè.

The cattle, in point of size and appearance, are very like the largest of our highland sorts, except in one respect, that those of Iceland are seldom seen with horns. As in other countries, we meet with finer cattle on some farms than on others; but, from every observation I could make, and information I could obtain, the Iceland farmers know nothing of the

art

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