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44 scholars. Queen Elizabeth visited the Charter House more than on one occasion; and that worthy non-conformist, Richard Baxter, breathed his last in one of its apartments in 1691. St. John's Gate, Clerkenwell, one of the oldest relics of London, is still standing. It is full of his toric associations, and the literary antiquary will remember that the first number of "The Gentleman's Magazine "-the earliest publication of its class, was issued from this place. Boswell speaks of the "reverence" with which Johnson gazed upon the antique pile. There was an ancient order connected with this gate, called the Knights of St. John, who were accustomed to regale themselves with beer and tobacco, yet they were very rigid in the observance of their devotions, and zealous in the defense of Christianity against Paganism. Within little more than a cen tury, the order possessed no fewer than nineteen thousand manors in different countries in Christendom. We now approach Cheapside, where lived the quaint, meditative philosopher, Isaac Walton, in 1643. At number 73, lived Sir Christopher Wren, a splendid stone edifice, since restored and occupied by Tegg, the well-known bookseller, who amassed a fortune by the purchase and sale of " remainders" of works of the several publishers. In Bread-St., Sir Thomas More was born, and on the opposite side Milton. Here also stood the famous Mermaid Tavern, the celebrated rendezvous of Raleigh, Spenser, Shakspeare, Selden, Ben Jonson, Donne, etc. Guildhall abounds with historical interest. It was here the fair martyr, Anne Askew, was brought to trial, also the beautiful and accomplished Lady Jane Grey, the Earl of Surrey, etc. Guildhall has also been famous for centuries, for its civic feasts, at many of which royalty presided. On the occasion of the peace, in 1814, the city gave a magnificent feast, at which the Prince Regent, the Emperor of Russia, and other potentates were guests; the total expenditure of which was estimated at the enormous sum of £25,000. The plate alone is stated to have been worth £200,000. John Bull still retains the enviable reputation of giving good dinners; the faculty he seems to have acquired of his ancestors. Opposite Guildhall is Bow-Church, the well known centre of the circle of cockneyism. At the western extremity of Cheapside, is Paternoster Row, which took its name from its being frequented by venders of Pater-nosters, beads, rosaries, etc., who hawked them to religious persons on their way to mass in St. Paul's Cathedral. It is now classic ground, having been long celebrated as the great emporium of the literature of the world. The Stationers' Company occupy their Hall in Amen Corner.

St. Paul's Cathedral occupies a site supposed to have been that of a Pagan temple in very early times. It is even stated that a temple

dedicated to Diana, once existed on the spot. Old St. Paul's abounded with historical associations, and contained the ashes of many illustrious personages. St. Paul's Cross, which stood in front of the western porch, was memorable as being the place at which royal marriages were announced; and among the number that of Henry VII. It was at Paul's Cross that the illustrious martyrs, Latimer and Ridley, were accustomed to deliver their powerful appeals in behalf of the reformed religion. In 1588, Queen Elizabeth, it will be remembered, went in state to the Cathedral to return thanks for the destruction of the "Invincible Armada," The last time that a sermon was preached at Paul's Cross in the presence of royalty, was in 1630, before Charles the First. In 1643, the long parliament voted the destruction of the different crosses in London, as being offensive relics of popery. The same year, during the civil wars, the Cathedral was doomed to havoc and desecration, and during the great fire, it was sacrificed by the devouring element. The present magnificent structure was commenced 1675, and completed in 1710; the grandest monument of architectural skill ever achieved by a single individual. It occupied thirty-five years in building, under the superintendence of Sir Christopher Wren; while St. Peter's, at Rome, took one hundred and fifty-five years in its construction, under the supervision of twelve successive architects. St. Paul's is more symmetrically beautiful than St. Peter's; its cost was close upon £750,000. Its dimensions are 340 feet in height, 500 in length, and 250 at its extreme breadth. St. Peter's is 437 feet in height, 730 feet long, and 500 broad. Wren received only £200 a year during the progress of his great work; for which he incurred the great responsibility of the undertaking, as well as the hazard of his life in being hauled up in baskets scores of times, even to the top of the cupola and cross. In the centre of the Cathedral, immediately under the great dome, is an inscription in brass over the remains of the great architect, which reads as follows:

"Si monumentum requiris circumspice."

The lofty columns which support the immense dome, are clustered with sculptured monuments of names distinguished in British history. The resting place of Nelson, is probably that which excites the deepest interest; it is in the crypt of the Cathedral. There is a gallery round the interior of the dome known as "The Whispering Gallery," where, by whispering against the wall, a person at the opposite extremity can hear what you say, as distinctly as if you spoke in a loud voice. The slamming of a door in that gallery reverberates like thunder. The most interesting time to witness St. Paul's Cathedral, is on the occasion of the

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anniversary celebration of the Parochial Schools of London in May, when some fifteen thousand children, each school being dressed alike are congregrated within this vast temple. Divine service is performed twice a day, in semi-popish, or Cathedral style, in a comparatively small enclosure, being the eastern aisle. Passing down Ludgate Hill, turning to the right, we pass the "Old Bailey," the terrible site of public executions. We shall not pause to refer to its dark records, for while many have been justly doomed to expiate their crimes, we cannot forget that it has witnessed the questionable right to the sacrifice of many valuable lives; to mention only the instance of Dr. Dodd. For nearly two centuries this horrible prison has witnessed the infliction of fearful cruelties, as well as the administration of justice. The prison itself is called Newgate. Our worthy William Penn was once incarcerated within its walls for preaching against the established church. Within a short distance at the east end of Newgate street, is Pannier Alley, in which is what is called “ London Stone," with the following couplet inscribed :— wton 91ad one me

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"When ye have sought the city round,
Yet still this is the highest ground."

Christ's Hospital, or the Blue Coat School, founded by Edward VI, is still one of the most eminent seats of learning in the British Metropolis. It has produced many distinguished men, among them Bishop Stillingfleet, Charles Lamb, Coleridge the Poet, etc. St. Sepulchre's church, Snow Hill, may possess interest to the American tourist, from the fact that it contains the remains of Capt. John Smith, the well-known adventurer among the Indians. On the north side of Holborn Hill, are Ely Place and Hatton Garden, the former deriving its name from the Episcopal palace of the bishops of Ely-the latter from the adjoining residence of Sir Christopher Hatton, the graceful courtier and éminent statesman of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Ely house, in the days of its splendor, was very stately: the grounds covered twenty acres. It was founded in 1290: and was the scene of some stirring events. Here "old John o' Gaunt, time-honored Lancaster," breathed his last, and according to Shakspeare, admonishing with his dying breath his dissipated nephew, Richard II. Here, too, says Holinshed, " did assemble that memorable council, and was enacted the terrible drama which was followed by the arrest of Lord Stanley, and of Jane Shore, the execution of Lord Hastings, and the dethronement and death of the ill-fated Edward the Fifth! Here also took place some royal entertainments, and among the number that at which Henry VIII. and Catharine of Arragon sat as guests, which lasted five days. The last "mystery." or sacred

drama represented in England, that of " Christ's Passion," was, it is said performed at Ely house in the reign of James the First. Sir Christopher Hatton breathed his last in Hatton house dying, it is reported, of a broken heart, in consequence of his being unable to repay £40,000 which Queen Elizabeth formerly lent him, and which she had pressed him to return. In Cross-street, Hatton Garden, lived the eminent divine, Whiston; and here also in modern times, shone for a season, that "bright particular star "-that theological Demosthenes-Edward Irving, whose brief, but brilliant career as a pulpit orator, for a time made this obscure nook the resort of the wealth aud fashion of the great metropolis.

In the vicinity of Holborn are the " Inns of Court"-Furnival's Inn, Gray's Inn, Lincoln's Inn, Staple Inn, Barnard's Inn, etc. These Inns of Court are mostly occupied by students at law. Gray's Inn was founded by Henry VIII. To the gateway of this Inn a certain interest attaches from its having been the site of the celebrated publishing establishment of Jacob Tonson, who appears to have resided here between the years 1697 and 1712, when he removed to a shop opposite Catherine-street, in the Strand. Tonson was succeeded in his shop by Osborne, whose name may be found in the "Dunciad." Osborne is perhaps best remembered for his well-known feud with Dr. Johnson. "It has been confidently related with many embellishments," says Boswell, "that Johnson one day knocked Osborne down in his shop with a folio, and put his foot upon his neck. The simple truth I had from the Doctor himself-Sir, he was impertinent to me, and I beat him: but it was not in his shop, it was in my own chamber.' Johnson says of Osborne that he was destitute of shame, without sense of any disgrace but that of poverty and that he combined the most lamentable ignorance with expertness in all the petty tricks of trade.

Bacon, it will be remembered, resided in Gray's Inn; some of his essays were dated from his "chamber in Graie's Inne." Here also dwelt the great statesman, Thomas Cromwell, afterwards Earl of Essex, who succeeded Woolsey in the favor of Henry, and to whom Shakspeare makes the Cardinal address his famous apostrophe:—,

The"

Oh! Cromwell, Cromwell,

Had I but served my God with half the zeal
I served my king, He would not in my age:
Have left me naked to mine enemies."

great Lord Burghley," Robert Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, and Monk, Duke of Albemarle, among statesmen; and Sir Philip Sydney,

Samuel Butler, author of "Hudibras," Chapman, the translator of Homer, and Murphy, the translator of Tacitus, in literature, were students of the society of Gray's Inn.

Of the other Inns, nothing of additional interest remains to be mentioned. Adjacent to Furnival's Inn, Holborn, in Brooke street, is an obscure grocery store, over which is the room, where, after three days' starvation, poor Chatterton committed suicide. If ever such a terrible crime could admit of palliation, it must be under such distressing circumstances as his. We visited the spot as one of the shrines of ill-fated genius, after reading the delightful memoirs of his sad and brief career, written by Cunningham-one of the most charming biographies in the language. The house has, we learn, been just pulled down.

St. Bride's church in Fleet street, is celebrated for its architectural beauty, as well as the interesting memories it recalls of the past. Here repose the ashes of Wynkyn De Worde, the contemporary with Caxton, Richardson the novelist, and several literary characters of the past century. St. Bride's is a contraction of St. Bridget's church; it is of very ancient foundation. The present structure is the work of Sir Christopher Wren. It was when Milton lived in St. Bride's churchyard that he contracted the ill-assorted marriage with Mary Powell. Salisbury Square, in the immediate vicinity, was the scene of many literary gatherings at the house of Richardson. Dr. Johnson at one time lived No. 4 Gough Square; it was here he compiled in part, his Dictionary and other works. Bolt Court is also another locality rendered classic by his name. The "Mitre Tavern," Fleet-street., was where the Dr. was accustomed to keep such late hours. It was here he so frequently met with his especial friends, Boswell and Goldsmith.

London has long been celebrated for its taverns and clubs: the former abound in the city proper to the east, and the latter, most of which are magnificent establishments, are situated at the "West End." The old city taverns formed the rendezvous of the wits and gallants of the past century. They seem to have been in their glory in the days of Johnson. The Chapter Coffee House, in Paternoster Row, has long been, and still is, the place where the bookselling fraternity" do chiefly congregate." The Rainbow, the Mitre, the Cock, and others in Fleet-street and its vicinity, were among the places of most frequent resort. In Fleet-st., near Temple Bar, still exists the banking-house of Child & Co., the most ancient in London. The private banking account of Charles II. was kept here, and is still extant. Near the junction of Chancery Lane and Fleet-st., lived Cowley, Drayton, and Isaac Walton. Curll, the bookseller, kept his shop "over against" St. Dunstan's church, with his

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