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Travelling Memorandums fet down occafionally, and without any defign of publication, by a gentleman who made a tour through a great part of Europe, in the years 1786, 1787, and 1788.

AT the age of fixty-five, being in eafy circumftances, but in a declining state of health, I refolved, by advice, to travel, and try the effect of fouthern climates, for one or two winters. Before my departure, I obtained confultations of able phyficians, both at Edinburgh and London; one of them was my worthy friend, Dr. G. then refiding in London. He had practised, with high reputation, for many years, in Carolina. As he was beft acquainted with the common effects of a hot climate on perfons bred in northern countries, I confi dered his advices as moft material; and I have experienced the fuccefs of them. I felect fome of these advices, for the benefit of others in fimilar circumftances. The Doctor treats the important article of regimen and diet, in an unusual, but, as I think, in a very fenfi ble manner. "Be moderate habitually--Whatever your "palate relishes, and your ftomach digefis eafily, is “best-In this, you must be your own physician, and

prefcribe from experience I know no better, "and propose no other rule of regimen-In coftive ha"bits, and cafes of weak digeftion, ripe fruits, especi"ally grapes, figs and fweet oranges, are good-Such "fimple refreshing diet, and thofe mineral waters "which both nourish and purify, are preferable "to any medicines However, I do advise you, occafionally, to use laxative medicines-Here, again, choose, "by your own experience, with this material precau"tion not commonly adverted to, that you should "obtain the prefcription for making fuch pills as best


agree with you, fo as to have them freth made from time to time, becaufe, when kept, they grow hard, and are apt to pafs without effect or operation

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"he thinks Rhubarb the fafeft laxative, and an "excellent ftrengthener of the ftomach; but, for the "reafon fuggefted, he advifes not to use it in pills, but to cut it into fmall pieces, of five or fix grains, and to chew it-By this means, it diffolves "fresh in the ftomach-Hot climates are, in fummer, "dangerous for us of the north-They produce fevers "in the young, and dyfenteries in the old, often fatal. "Therefore, he advises a retreat to more temperate "climates; and in particular he recommends Laufanne "or Spa for our fummer retirement."



Thus provided with found advice in regard to health, I was defirous to have aid and information fron proper books of travels-I purchased many volumes, not very much to my fatisfaction-I chiefly confulted Keyfler, Moore, and Smollet, as modern writers who defcribe the courfe which I intended to take I found Keysler heavy, tedious, trivial, and certainly not improved by the English tranflation from the original German-Though deficient in fubftantial information, yet he points out many uncommon objects to the curious traveller--Mr. Moore writes with propriety, fome fpirit, and with better informationbut, to my taste, he expatiates too much I was best pleased with my old and excellent friend, Doctor Smollet-Tefty and difcontented as he is, he writes with perfpicuity His obfervations are generally fenfible, and even his oddities are entertaining *. In the progrefs of this journal, I make fome remarks on the travels of Mr. Addifon and Bishop Burnet ;-but my memorandums are relative to Smollet, and are either supplementary or corrective of his book—I found Dutens's journal very useful; and every traveller


* One of his fellow-travellers reports this story of him, that at an inn on their route, the landlady was a coarfe red-haired woman, and a great fcold.-Dr. Smollet immediately fet down in his pocket-book, "All the women in this town are red-haired, and insufferable fhrews."

on his routs, ought to have it-Guthrie's geographical grammar is the best book of that kind, so far as I knowIt is concife, accurate, and inftructive-And I think it is one very proper Vade mecum for travellers.

I fet out from London for Dover on the 5th of September 1786, attended by two uncommonly good fervants; one of them, a foreigner, fpoke French, Italian and German. By good advice, I avoid fatigue; and though I travel by poft, my daily journies are very eafy. For the first night, I was at the King's Head, Rochefter; on the fecond night, at the RofeJnn, Sittingbourne ; next day, the 7th September, I arrived at the City of London inn, Dover. Many travellers have complained loudly of extortion on this road-I experienced no caufe for this complaint. At both the above inns, I had good fare, and more moderate bills than ordinary in the fouthern parts of England. I was uncommonly pleased with the inn at Dover-The landlady, a widow, is fenfible, civil, remarkably and unaffectedly kind and attentive to her guests. Juft after my arrival, four or five captains of yachts, altogether, entered my room, and rather in a blunt and forward manner, feverally preffed for my employment. After fome reflection, I told them that I had a friend in town with whom I would advise; that Iwithed them to retire for the prefent; and that, if they thought proper to return in about an hour and an half, I fhould be then ready to determine myfelf-In the interim I converfed with my landlady on the matter.She appeared fhy of explicit and particular advice, for fear of offence to any of them; but from threwd hints, I perceived that he had the best opinion of a Captain Sharp, whofe good countenance and gentle manner had already prepoffeffed me in his favour. Accordingly, when they returned, which they did very punctually at the time appointed, I difmiffed the reft, and dealt with him; and from his very fair and

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obliging behaviour, I had good reafon to be fatisfied with my choice-I told him, that as I travelled for health and amufement, being old, valetudinary, and timorous at fea, I was determined not to embark without a profpect and probability of an eafy paffage; nor would I fail in the night time-Our bargain was regu. lated in these terms, and fix guineas fixed as his fare, for myself, my fervants and carriage-Next morning early, he attended me, and honeftly told me there was a fresh gale; but as the wind was cross, though the paffage would be fafe enough, it would be tedious and uneafy; but that I might go down to the port and judge for myself-He was willing either to fail or stay till next day, as I pleafed-When at the port, I thought what he called a fresh gale, was a horrible tempeft; fo I declined to go-He faid he was well fatisfied; ad that from appearances, he hoped foon for a favourable change of weather-Two other yachts failed, and had a very diftreffing paffage-My good captain proved a true prophet. Next morning he annonced a moderate gale and fair wind-We failed, and had a delightful paffage in three hours-Before we parted, Captain Sharp gave me an advice, which I believe to be very just and material for travellers to know-He faid, that in returning from the Continent, it is more eligible to fail from Boulogne than from Calais, as we save twenty-four miles of land journey, and generally have a more favourable and expeditious paffage-In Calais, I put up at the celebrated hotel of Deffein-I was immediately vifited by a begging Capuchin, as I fuppofe, the fame perion who is defcribed by Sterne told him, that being a heretic, he could expect nothing from me-His behaviour was mild and decent-He faid there were good men of all religions, and that charity was a general principle-I shall give him fomething, although I think it a vile practice, and one of many fanctified. modes of picking pockets-It colt me two guineas to clear all charges of landing, and cuftom

houfe claims-This, I believe, is moderate,especially as I was affured that a large case of English knives and forks would be liable to forfeiture, if the custom-house officers were rigorous-In this and other points, I think I can perceive fymptoms of conciliating measures with France. The quaintnefs of Sterne's wit (which has many admirers) ftruck me forcibly when I again converfed with the Capuchin-This inn is not only magnificent, but commodious, and remarkably well served

It well merits the encomiums bestowed on it by travellers-Mr. Deffein appears to me a fenfible, confiderate, unaffected man-He is very attentive and ferviceable to travellers who defire to converse with him, and I think, wifely, leaves travellers who exprefs no fuch defire, to their, own difcretion-I thought myself rich obliged to him for his kind service, and good advice in several particulars-He aided me to fettle with the custom-houfe-He gave me French money for my, English guineas, at the best rate of exchange-He advised me to keep my English crowns and half crowns, as they have a profitable currency in all parts of France -He explained to me, that by the king's ordinance, if I kept the pole of my carriage, I must employ four horfes; but that by quitting it, three would serve, which proved a confiderable faving in the courfe of my long journeys through France.

On the 10th, I fet out for Paris, and proceeded no farther that day, than to the post house at BoulogneI had good entertainment, below the common rates in England-Five livres for two bottles of very good Burgundy-Four livres for dinner to two perfons, and three for my lodgings-Here fome British gentlemen, by recommendation from friends at London, waited on me, and offered me many civilities, which my ftate of health obliged me to decline-So, on the 11th I proceeded to Montreuil, and lodged at the Court of France inn, where my entertainment was elegant, and my bill

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